Soft-wash, not blast-wash.
We never use 4,000 PSI on fiber-cement or vinyl siding. Soft-wash with the right detergent kills mildew at the root — high pressure just blows it off the surface so it grows back in 90 days.
Most pressure-washing damage we get called to repaint over was self-inflicted. Wand held too close to fiber-cement siding. Hot tip used on a soft cedar deck. Detergent skipped because the homeowner couldn't tell mildew from grime. The result: blasted siding fibers, gouged wood, and stripes you can see from the street.
We pressure-wash the way exterior painters pressure-wash, which is to say carefully. Soft-wash for siding (low PSI plus a sodium-hypochlorite solution that actually kills mildew at the root). Mid-pressure with a surface cleaner for driveways and walkways (no zebra stripes from a wand). Strip-grade pressure for decks that are getting re-stained — but never on a deck the homeowner just wants "refreshed."
We pressure-wash as a standalone service, or as the prep step for an exterior paint job. Either way, the same crew, the same equipment, the same care for the surface underneath.
We never use 4,000 PSI on fiber-cement or vinyl siding. Soft-wash with the right detergent kills mildew at the root — high pressure just blows it off the surface so it grows back in 90 days.
Driveways and walkways get a 24-inch surface cleaner attachment that hits everything evenly. No wand stripes, no "oops, I missed a row," and no etching the concrete from a stationary high-pressure point.
When pressure-washing is the prep step for paint, the crew that strips the surface is the crew that comes back to paint it. Nothing falls through a handoff between two contractors.
Reginaldo identifies what surface gets what method. Soft-wash for siding, surface cleaner for driveway, deck strip if applicable, and what plantings need protection.
We apply a low-volume sodium-hypochlorite solution and let it dwell on the surface for the time it takes to kill mildew at the root — not just stain it gray for a week.
Low-pressure rinse on siding, mid-pressure with surface cleaner on driveways, strip-grade on decks scheduled for re-stain. The pressure matches the surface — every time.
Stains the wash didn't lift get a second pass with a brush and targeted detergent. Drains, gutters, and downspout splash points get extra attention.
Final walk-through with you, plantings inspected for splash damage (rare with our detergent), and a written warranty if pressure-washing was the prep step for paint.
Not the way we do it. We soft-wash fiber-cement and vinyl siding with low pressure and a sodium-hypochlorite detergent that kills mildew at the root. High-pressure on siding is what causes the chalky white residue and blasted-fiber look — we don't do that. Wood siding gets the same soft-wash treatment.
No, but it helps for the first 15 minutes so we can walk the property together and confirm what surfaces get what method. After that, most clients hand us a code or key and come home to a finished job. We text photos at the end.
We rinse plantings with fresh water before and after the detergent goes on, and we capture driveway runoff to keep the harsh chemicals off the lawn. The sodium-hypochlorite mix we use is the same active ingredient in pool shock — diluted, rinsed, and never left to pool on grass roots.
Yes. For a deck that's getting re-stained, we use strip-grade pressure to lift the old stain and any gray weathered wood off the surface. We let the deck dry 48 hours, then sand any rough grain before stain. We don't strip a deck that's just getting a refresh — that's overkill and damages the wood.